Installing the original Series III heating system:
My Landrover was
purchased by the French government and put in action in Mauritania,
Africa. They seemed to have thought, that a heater was not needed over
there. So they purchased this Landrover without the heating system.
|I started with obtaining second hand parts and
with purchasing parts, that still can be purchased new.
Here you see the heater fan, with on the left, the fresh air grill muff and on the right the air hose from the fan to the heater housing.
|Here you see my second hand heater housing and the heater radiator that was in there. Loose rust is already brushed off the housing. The housing is now ready to be painted with rust converter Fertan.||The heater housing after treatment with Fertan rust converter, a layer of primer and 2 layers of black paint. A purchased new radiator is inserted. However I need some Dum-Dum compound to fix and seal the radiator airtight in the heater housing.|
|This is the spot, were the heater housing is to be fitted. The black cover is the bulkhead transit hole to the lower dashboard, on which the hole in the heater housing is to be fitted, to blow hot air in the interior. This area is prepared by removing loose rust, treatment with Fertan, spraying primer and paint.||When trying to remove the lower dashboard, to gain access to the heater hole, I did hear crunchy sounds an brown chips were falling to the ground. That seems to be another project suddenly coming up. Here you look on top of the removed lower dashboard. The heater should blow through the lower part and hoses are connected from the round holes to the upper dashboard, to blow against the windows.||Here you see the hole in the dashboard, that matches up with
the heater hole in the bulkhead.
However the dashboard is in very bad condition.
|Yes, it is definitely beyond repair. Maybe condensed
water from the windows ended up in the dashboard.
A new dashboard appears not to be available on the internet and searching for a "good" second hand one will take a long time.
So the third project will be making an alternative new dashboard.
|I have in mind to make the alternative lower dashboard of aluminum. By
removing the lower dashboard I have gained access to one of the main wire trunks and bulkhead
transit, as well. This is needed to do the electrical project.
For the distribution of the hot air are not all original parts for the dashboard available and I have to come up with an alternative solution..
|The Landrover series III with heater, has the air intake in the side of the front wing. But how to define the position of this hole? Well, the fan axel is sticking out a few centimeters, inside the housing. I did slide on a piece of aluminum tubing of 10mm OD. That fits good, then I held the fan in the correct position under the wing and marked the spot were the tube was touching the side of the wing. However, be also sure, that the edge of the air intake grill stays just under the curve at the top of the wing.|
|Here a part of the new lower dash is temporary put in place, to check the fit. In the middle, you see the top, of an aluminum, box, painted black, that I used, to collect the hot air, from the blower, blowing through the bulkhead transit and a matching transit hole in the bottom of this box. On the left you see a hose for transferring the heater air to the left windows and driver.||I decided, to use plastic hose instead of rigid pipe, because the hole in the heat entry box could not be in line with the transit in the left site of the right part of the dashboard, because of the bulge in the bulkhead.||The hose has to run over the bulge, because above that will
be the parcel board.
This picture is also taken, to see the space for transits for the four electrical cables, that will replace the original cable trunk.
|The heater transit hole, now covered by the black heat entry box, is not in line with the heat entry hole in the upper dashboard. So I have to find a solution for that.||
Under the new dashboard you see a water pipe valve. This is
my solution, for a not new or used available original distribution valve,
for regulating air between the windows and feet.
Now one just turns the valve open, if one would have hot air to his feet. This is actual an innovation, against the original situation, because now there is independent regulation for both driver and passenger.
|Here you see the underside of the dashboard on the driver side (left). The hole in the upper dashboard is in the middle of the picture straight up. The standard peace of hose is just a bit to long and has to be cut. Because here will be a T-piece fitted, between air to windows and/or feet.|
Here you see the water valves at the underside of the finished new
alternative dashboard, serving as warm air valves to the feet.
Under you see the other alternative means of heating; the pipe with manual valve, that connects to an air flow screen at the exhaust manifold.
|This is the hot water connection on the right side at the front (water pump manifold) of the engine. A piece of hexagon stud pipe with straight thread and a copper washer connects to the engine. On the top of that, the water valve is screwed in. The valve has NPT thread, this thread is to be sealed with Teflon tape. If the valve its hose connection points straight back, it obstructs the engine valves cover. Therefore it has to point a bit to the right side of the car. So do not try to screw it in completely, but stop before the last turn, pointing the hose connection in the correct direction.||At the left back of the engine, another (out of
line) bolt is removed and a hose connection piece is screwed in, with
straight thread and a copper washer.
The hose clamp is not in the final position and the clamping ring is not tightened.
I used standard copper pipe of 15mm, however, the hoses are for 5/8"
pipe, that is 16mm. So if you are able to obtain for example SS pipe of
16mm used for hydraulic lines, that would be much better.
Here the pipes are temporarily installed, to see if it all fits.
|These standard rubber hose connection pieces
for the series III, can still be bought. Here you see the connection to
the heater radiator pipes, sticking out of the heater housing.
This is just for trying the fit. The hose clamps are not on, yet.
|Since I did not have a bending iron, I have
used soldering knees. However it would be better of course to make bends.
I have supported the back pipe from the bulkhead. But better is to support from the valve cover bolt. The rubber hoses at the heater are longer, better able to take shaking and vibration of the engine.
|The water valve is controlled by a steel wire, connected to control levers in the dashboard. Here I have to come up, with a solution for connecting the wire to the valve lever. The wire has to have pulling, as well as pushing capability.||Hire you see my second hand bought control levers. The dashboard had already preparations, by drilling hole markings and a covered slot for the levers. The lever in the down position was to control the airflow valve, to the windows or to the feet. I don't have this valve, so this lever has no function. The lever in the up position controls the water valve.||Here you see all pipes, hoses and hose clamps
installed, after a few test drives.
I compensated for the too small pipes of 15mm, by wrapping the ends in one overlapping layer of self bonding rubber tape. Then stick the end in to the the rubber hose and tighten the hose clamp. This seems to work.
This page was last updated on 12-jul-2011