Refurbishment of doors

I started removing the sealing rubbers at the left side back door, the upper part of the rubber is crunchy, but the remaining parts on the door are like sticky chewing gum, hard to remove. The door sealing rubbers have a rusty metal strip inside, with which they are pop-nail riveted to the door frames. Here the bad sealing rubbers are removed by drilling out the rivets, scraping the rusty patches, cleaning and brushing Fertan liquid on the cleaned doorframes. This is how it looks after 24 hours. The Fertan liquid has (at the dark spots) bonded with the bare metal and loosened or converted rust into a protective Polymeric Metal Organic layer of so called Iron Tannin.
In the meantime I also filled the gap in the top window sealing rubbers. Here you see also the rivet holes of the top door sealing rubber. After 24 hours, the Fertan treated surfaces are washed with clean water and a home dishwashing scouring sponge. I used the primer also on the door frames, this appeared to be a mistake.
I painted the Epoxy primer on the left doorframe with resin based lacquer, then at a professional car paint shop, I had car paint mixed to fit the color as much as possible and applied 2 layers on the doorframe. However the resin based paint underneath is dissolved and after trying out the fit of a door seal, the car paint is breaking up and dissolved white resin based paint is smeared out. So never use different kinds of paint on each other. Here the new door seal in front of the back side door is fitted wit pop-rivets. If you still have to buy a pair if pop-nail tongs, you better buy a expensive quality one. I had already a cheap one, nails get stuck in it many times, needing disassembling it. These door seals have no holes, be sure to take over the hole positions from the car very carefully and drill 6mm holes to have some error clearance. If not, you will have more miss-pops. Very time consuming. Here you see the new door seal at the underside of the doorframe. I used professional pop-nails, size 4.8x13mm, for hole size 4.9mm and a clamping range of 7.9 mm. At some points and at dislocated holes, this clamping range was not sufficient, causing miss-pops. Then you end up with a very tight pop-nail on the metal strip of your rubber door seal, you have to cut this open at the back side and drill it off. Very time consuming.
The new "original" door seals in front of the back door are a bit odd, the rivets are exposed. The beam in between was forgotten by the previous owner and left white. I painted this with the car paint, using a roller. First of all this paint (made for spraying) was drying much to fast, making a neat job impossible and furthermore the color does not mach. After fitting the new door seals, the doors won't close at all. The underside seal seems too thick and is folding the wrong way at the front of the door. Cutting off some rubber did not help, so I removed this seal from the car.
However, the door still won't close at all and the thickness of this seal seems not the to be the cause of the problem.
This new piece of seal seemed to be too thick also, in the upper corner. I could use filler plates between the door hinges and the car, but I never saw or hear this solution being applied. So I decided to adjust the lock catch a little and use 2 filler rings under the lock itself.
This as a temporary measure, until the new rubbers are set. Pushing firmly closes the door

Second project

Patching-up the aft side doors.

Because at the bottom of the sliding windows, a worrying amount of rust was visible and the windows would not slide at all.
Also at the corners on the underside of the doors was rust.
This is one of the doors removed from the car.
Removing the windows was easy, the screws at the top and side gutters were just a bit difficult to find. Be sure not to damage the aluminum strips, because they are to be re-used!! It is important, to remember how the windows were originally fitted, so I made some photographs of that.
This happens, when putting a screwdriver under what was once a sling gutter for the windows. The slots in the screw heads are rusted away, so the gutter is to be removed by force. I removed the screws afterwards, with a pair of pincers. This is, what is left of the door underneath, after poking a bit with my screwdriver. Rust patches are all over the doors and holes rusted trough the steel at corners, were water did accumulate.
This is also at the door handle boxes, that have a small edge, holding standing water. This is, what is left (or rather not left) underneath the sliding gutter at the other door. The conclusion is, that after 37 years, these doors are in quite good condition and just need some parching-up. Here you see one door with Rustbusters Fertan applied, after removing loose rust with the steel brush on the drilling machine.
After spraying primer, the large gap in one of the doors is closed with aluminum plate and a pop-rivet, to have something (other than thin air), to mount the new sliding gutter on. Here you see one of the doors sprayed. The small rusted holes are just left open, to have ventilation in the steel profiles. In fact, I have drilled additional holes in the underside of the door, to let any water out. Furthermore, the steel profiles are sprayed on the inside, with conservation wax. Here you see the famous Dum-Dum applied for sealing and fitting the steady glass part of the sliding windows.
This Dum-Dum appeared to be very nice stuff, I liked it a lot and recommend it for all kinds of sealing work on a Landrover.
Here you see the sliding windows fitted with new PVC gutters and re-used aluminum parts.
I have made sure that water ingress to the metal of the doors is not possible, by applying a layer of Dum-Dum underneath the bottom gutter, filling up all the aluminum profiles with Mastic Black UV resistant Roofing kit.
Filled the crevice between the sliding gutter and the aluminum filling strip and between this strip and the aluminum body and every other possible water ingress point, with Mastic Black UV resistant Roofing kit, that stays also always flexible, just like the Dum-Dum. Only the kit is thinner for filling small crevices under some pressure of the kit pistol.  After (during the first project), putting new rubber door seals on the doors, the doors won't close, especially the right aft door, so before putting this door back on the car, I made some temporary aluminum filler plates, of about 2.5 mm thick. I am now able to close the door, by putting my full weight against it. That is quite an improvement!
When putting the doors back on the Landrover, I also looked for a solution of an other small problem. I think a Landrover should never look very tidy, however rust stripes going down from the hinges, is quite disturbing. Also this Philips head bolts are always damaged, when putting doors on and off on the Landrover, because you can not hold these with sufficient force, to loosen the rusted nuts on the other side. The solution, I found is to use Stainless Steel Allan key bolts of metric size M8.
They are stronger and can be hold with sufficient force, without damaging the bolt or the surrounding paintwork.
Hmmmm...., something went wrong with the picture color in my digital camera.
Anyway, as you can see, the bolt heads fit perfect, only at the car-side mounting, they stick out a bit.
However, these bolts are also available with lower size heads. However a lower head gives less grip for the Allan key. Example availability: http://www.rvspaleis.nl/
At the door-side mounting, I used size M8x50. At the car-side mounting, I used size M8x90.
However, here you see the mounting of the upper hinge, were these sticking out bolts hinder the safety belt. So, you should use M8x80 (for the upper hinges only).
Here you see the mounting of the lower hinge, were bolt size M8x90 is just fine. So, take care, that you have to order different lengths of bolts for the upper and lower hinges. Everything is mounted with use of flat- and lock washers, of course. This is the is the result, of stuffing the inside of the forward side doors with aluminum tear plate. However the upper part had to be bend two times. This was not possible with tear plate, so I had to use other thinner plate. The result is not very neat, but better than nothing.
This is on the aft side doors, Here I did re-use the original upper part of plastic covered steel plate. This is on the back door, for which the standard plate size of 1000 x 500 mm was to small and a strip is added on the underside. All space between the outside aluminum body and the tear plate is filled with fire proof PUR foam, as you can see a piece on the right.

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This page was last updated on 12-jul-2011.